Never heard of Sal? The island in the Atlantic is one of the trendy winter destinations. I was there for a week and give you my best tips for the Cape Verdean island of Sal.
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Where is the island of Sal located?
The island of Sal, known as the “Island of Salt,” is part of the Cape Verde Islands and is the flattest of the archipelago. The Cape Verde Islands are located in the Atlantic Ocean off the coast of West Africa, approximately 2 hours by plane south of the Canary Islands. From Europe, thanks to numerous direct flights, it’s only 6 h to these warm islands all year round!
What can you do in Sal?
Unlike the other Cape Verde islands, which are mainly hiking islands, the flattest island Sal, together with Boa Vista, is a ‘bathing island’ with dream beaches and warm, clear sea. At first glance, Sal looks like a ‘package holiday island’ where there is not much to see. However, considering the size of the small island, there are enough attractions for a few excursions if you get bored on the beach.
1. Santa Maria: THE tourist resort in the south of the island
The secret capital of the island of Sal is Santa Maria, in the far south. The town has grown a lot in recent years and there is construction and renovation work going on everywhere. Many parts of the town are pedestrianised, so you can stroll around and admire the colourful colonial-style houses and spend a few hours relaxing in a pavement café. Yes, Santa Maria is very touristy, but beautifully designed.
You’re looking to buy a bottle of water? The small, kiosk-like convenience stores in the city centre are extremely expensive. After all, everything has to be imported. It’s a bit more affordable at the market hall and the “Cazu” supermarket outside the city centre.
At the eastern end of the town, there is a “shell cemetery” on the beach. It is practically buried under shells. The vast majority are damaged, but it still looks very impressive. On Google Maps, it’s called the “shell cemetery beach”.
The highlight is the long sandy beach that begins to the west of the large pier and the building with the lighthouse. There you’ll find beach bars, water sports providers, swimming tourists and locals, and large hotel complexes. However, caution is advised: the waves can be very high and the currents very strong. For non-swimmers, it’s not really suitable for splashing around on windy days (which are common).
Tip: The “Beach Bar Olá Brasil” (the very first establishment on the left side of the promenade coming from the centre) is a down-to-earth beach bar for locals and tourists alike. Here, you can easily strike up conversations with others, and as the sun sets with a Caipirinha in hand, the perfect holiday feeling is complete.
Other things to do around Santa Maria:
- The kitesurfing beach in the south-east of Sal
- the saltworks a few hundred metres north of Santa Maria, which are still in operation today
- the sand dunes north of Ponta do Sino (near the Riu Hotels)
2. The capital of Espargos: eyeryday Cape Verdean life
Espargos (meaning asparagus) is often left out of the typical tours of the island. However, the ‘capital’ in the centre of the island is interesting precisely because it is so normal. There, you can see a different Cape Verde beyond the prettified houses and pedestrianised streets of Santa Maria. Visit the market hall or eat a typical breakfast like Catxupa and watch the hustle and bustle. The majority of the population of Sal lives here, many of whom work in tourism.
You can get to Espargos from Santa Maria regularly by public minibus, even late at night. Or of course by taxi.
Tip: From the local mountain Monte Curral you have a panoramic view over the whole island and in good weather even as far as the neighbouring island of Boa Vista.
Prefer something a bit more laid-back? The sleepy version of an authentic Cape Verdean town is Palmeira, located just a few kilometres west of Espargos. It only comes alive when cargo ships and cruise ships dock in the harbour. Otherwise, you’ll have this fishing village with its colourful houses all to yourself.
3. Best beach in Sal
Swimming in the Atlantic Ocean is not as harmless as it may appear. The turquoise water looks paradisiacal, but invisible currents can pull you out to sea. That’s why I read reviews before my trip and came across the beach north of Ponta Preta, a few kilometres north of Santa Maria. This area is home to several hotels and holiday home complexes. The highlight is not only the golden sandy beach itself – the beaches on Sal are almost all beautiful – but the breakwater.
No matter how choppy the sea is: in the pool formed by the breakwater, you are protected from the waves and can enjoy your holiday on an air mattress or swimming without any danger. I was there in November and the sea was warm and just perfect.
How do you get there? From Santa Maria, you can either walk along the beach to the north of the RIU hotels, where you can also see the dunes. Alternatively, take the minibus towards Espargos and then get off at the roundabout in Vila Verde, where you can also drive a monster truck next door, and follow the road towards the beach.
4th Pedra de Lume: The top attraction in Sal
Upon approach, you can see the most famous landmark of the Cape Verde island of Sal: The historic salt pans and salt lake.
Surrounded by the rough limestone plateaus of a crater, you can not only watch the salt being mined, but also swim in the salt lake. Or rather, float on the surface like in the Dead Sea! It’s definitely worth it.
Tip: Don’t shave just beforehand. The slightest skin irritation burns like fire in salt water!
How to get there: You can get to Pedra de Lume either by taxi, hire car or on an organised tour.
5. Swimming in the blue eye
Known to the locals as the Buracona Olho Azul, the “Blue Eye” is a firm fixture on all tours around the island. The marine pool got its name from the vibrant colour it takes on when the sun hits the water at the right angle. The organised tours time things so that you can witness this colourful display. Alternatively, you can simply take a dip in the seawater pool between the rocks (or go diving).
Info: The Blue Eye or ‘Blue Eye Cave’ is located on the north-west coast north of Palmeira. You can either take part in an organised tour or come by taxi or hire car. There is an entrance fee and it is overcrowded at certain times due to the tour groups.
6. Botanical garden Viveiro
On the otherwise very barren island of Sal, the Viveiro Botanical Garden is a small green paradise. It is also a mini-zoo with goats, rabbits and birds. Especially nice for children, but adults will also enjoy the well-tended flora on 3 hectares and want to sniff the tropical blossoms. Snacks can be purchased on site.
Info: Admission costs the equivalent of 5 euros (2024). The garden is located on the road from Santa Maria to Espargos, a few kilometres north of Santa Maria. Easily accessible with the Aluguer or alternatively by taxi.
7. Mirage in the Terra Boa
The Terra Boa plain appears desolate and empty at first glance. But in the right spot, you’ll discover extensive shimmering on the horizon. Here, under the hot sun, mirages are a common occurrence.
How to get there: You may not find the right place on the unsurfaced terrain in the north of the island in a hire car. Join an organised tour. There are also quadbike tours.
8. Tourist trap Shark Bay
In Shark Bay, you can watch lemon sharks, or rather they swim past your legs. Sounds like a unique encounter with nature? In reality, tourists are brought in by the busload and wade through the shallow water in (borrowed) water shoes until they reach the spot where a local feeds the sharks. This not only disturbs the natural behaviour of the sharks, it also unbalances the entire ecosystem. I wouldn’t do it!
Tip: If you want to sustainably support the island’s fauna, check out the turtle projects like those of the TUI Care Foundation and Projeto Biodiversidade. The sea turtle Caretta caretta lays its eggs on the island’s beaches.
Hiking on Sal
For those who have visited the other Cape Verdean islands, the topic of hiking on Sal will have them shaking their heads. Nevertheless, there are a few “mountains” to conquer on this rather flat island. The most popular are the Serra Negra on the east coast and the Monte Leao on the west coast.
Water sports in Sal
Sal is the island for kitesurfers! On some beaches, the wind literally blows you away – ideal conditions for kitesurfers. The best months for kitesurfing on Cape Verde are December to May. Ponta Preta beach is the Mecca of kitesurfing.
Diving and snorkelling is more rewarding from May to November, as the sea is less choppy and visibility is better. Boat tours start mainly in Santa Maria.
With the catamaran, you can even reach the neighbouring island of Boa Vista. Otherwise, fishing tours are also offered.
Culinary specialities on Sal
The Cape Verde islands may not have given rise to haute cuisine due to their rather sparse vegetation, but they do have some tasty dishes worth trying. The Cape Verdeans grill up juicy tuna steaks on the barbecue, which even I as a fish-hater have enjoyed!
Tip: You can try crayfish and lobster here more cheaply than anywhere else.
The poor people’s dish ‘Catchupa/Catxupa’ is more down-to-earth. It is a savoury stew made from corn, beans, sweet potatoes, other vegetables and sometimes meat or fish. For breakfast, the catchupa from the previous day is fried and served topped with an egg. It fills you up for the whole day and is cheap!
When it comes to beverages, the harder options are Ponche and Grogue made from sugarcane, pure or as a cocktail ingredient, rather than the Cape Verdean beer “Strela“. More expensive but a noble drop is the wine from the island of Fogo. A great souvenir is the coffee from Fogo.
Conclusion: Sal is worth it
As you can see, Sal offers much more than expected and has a few surprises in store. If you can, you should definitely visit other Cape Verde islands and add Sal at the end as a ‘beach extension’. Even if you only enjoy the beach and don’t go on any excursions, Sal is a very good choice, especially in winter.
FAQ about Sal
Transport: How to get around on Sal
Rental car: You only need a rental car if you want to explore the island completely independently, but with a group, a taxi is also worthwhile, and everyone can focus on the views. Some routes are unpaved and with the rocky terrain, you need to be careful off-road where you’re driving. The taxi from the airport to Santa Maria should not cost more than 20 Euros.
Organised excursion: An organised tour, which you can book at the hotel or in advance, or spontaneously in Santa Maria with one of the many providers, will take you to the sights of Sal in one day. In my opinion, the best choice if you’re on a beach holiday and still want to see something of the island. There are also organised quad tours, if the car or bus is too “normal” for you.
Public transport: The public transport on Sal – and throughout Cape Verde – is the Aluguer. A minibus that stops everywhere to pick up and drop off passengers. The Espargos-Santa Maria axis is serviced by Aluguers all day long. The fare was around 1 Euro per person in November 2023. We paid in the local currency Escudo, so I don’t know if Euros are accepted. In Santa Maria, the “bus station” is at the beginning of Rua Amilcar Cabral.
Inter-island transport: The catamaran can be used to reach the neighbouring island of Boa Vista, also as a day trip.
How long does it take to fly to Sal Cape Verde?
From the UK, it’s less than 6 hours of flight time for a direct flight to Sal. Mainly the TUI airlines fly directly to Sal from many larger British cities. At the airport in Sal, you could purchase a 1.5l bottle of water for 2 Euros. Definitely cheaper than on the plane!
Tips for flying with Tui: Pre-order a meal. The flight is long and meals include beverages. The seat pitch is rather tight even for average-sized people. Invest in a seat with more legroom. There is (mostly) no in-flight entertainment. Bring your own entertainment in the form of books or movies.
Best time to visit Sal
Sal enjoys a pleasant climate year-round, but there are some more ideal time periods.
November to June:
Dry season
Optimal for beach and water sports
Little rain and lots of sunshine, but also a lot of wind
Temperatures between 24°C and 29°C
July to October:
Slightly more precipitation
Temperatures around 30°C
Pleasant sea temperatures for swimmers and divers, good visibility
I visited in November and when it was very windy, it was almost cool. Nevertheless, it was great to escape the grey weather and soak up the sun. You won’t find a better travel destination in the European winter with this flight duration! In spring and autumn, you can admire migratory birds.
My tip: If you want to protect your hair/bald head/ears, a neck gaiter is best. Due to the strong wind, any other headgear will just blow away.
Where is the best place on Sal?
This is of course subjective, but my favourite place is the beach at the breakwater by the Bikini Beach Club.
Are the Cape Verde Islands expensive?
Unfortunately, that is the case, as energy and food items have to be imported for the most part. We visited 4 of the 9 inhabited islands, and the infrastructure and living conditions positively surprised me. The archipelago has risen from a developing country to a “middle-income country”, and mainland Africans come to Cape Verde to work. This alone means it cannot be “cheap”.
Sal is very barren and dry, but it has a seawater desalination plant and generates electricity through solar parks, and produces some fruit and vegetables for its own needs. Nevertheless, the vast majority of foodstuffs have to be imported, and these are correspondingly expensive.
Prices in Santa Maria:
Drinks: A beer typically costs around 2 Euros, while cocktails in beach bars can range between 5 and 10 Euros.
Food: In the restaurants on the promenade or in the pedestrian zone, a main course starts at around 10 Euros.
All inclusive hotel or apartment in Sal?
In my opinion, all-inclusive is the most worthwhile option. Although there is a large selection of holiday flats and houses, the choice of food in Santa Maria is small and very expensive. Eating out is also expensive if you don’t want to eat catchupa in the third row. Depending on the provider, flights are almost as expensive as a package holiday with hotel and flight.